In a nutshell, Antarctica is the coldest, driest, highest and windiest continent on Earth. Surviving and operating on this inhospitable continent would be incredibly difficult, were it not for specialised organisations, capable of overcoming enormous challenges to provide logistical service. One such organisation relies on aviation to reach seemingly inaccessible locations.
Dronning Maud Land
The first time man set foot on Antarctica was in 1821 and it was only in 1911 that the first person reached the South Pole. That should give us some idea of the difficult conditions that prevail on this continent. In 1959, 47 countries agreed to the Antarctic Treaty, setting the continent apart as a scientific preserve and banning all military activity. From 1961, the continent has been governed according to the Antarctic Treaty. The region between Stancomb-Wills Glacier at 20°W and the Shinnan Glacier at 44°38’E is known as Dronning (‘Queen’ in Norwegian) Maud Land (DML). It was claimed by Norwegians in 1939, but because of the Antarctic Treaty, the claim is not universally recognised. The region is known for its large ice sheets, mountain peaks and ice cliffs.
ALCI Operations
The Committee of Managers of National Antarctic Programmes (COMNAP) includes Belgium, Finland, Germany, India, Japan, Netherlands, Norway, Russia, South Africa, Sweden and the United Kingdom. In 2002, these Antarctic operators initiated the Dronning Maud Land Air Network (DROMLAN) project in order to provide transportation within the DML, as well as between the DML and any COMNAP member in science related activities. The Cape Town based organisation, Antarctic Logistics’ Centre International (ALCI), has been involved as a logistical service provider in the DROMLAN initiative from its beginning. ALCI provides a dedicated air bridge between Cape Town and DML. It also provides feeder flights between research stations within the DML. In addition, the organisation services a shipping link between Cape Town and Antarctica with its ice class vessel, the R.V. Akedemik Fedorov.
ALCI’s airbase is a seasonal camp next to Novo Runway, located about 10 km southwest of the Russian Novolazarevskaya research station in the Schirmacher Oasis. Novo Runway is a ‘blue ice’ runway, almost 3 000 metres long and 60 metres wide. Next to the runway, you can see tents, mobile living modules, maintenance equipment and a permanent building, owned by the Russian Antarctic Expedition (RAE). The base is operated by ALCI and RAE specialists. The runway is perfectly suitable for large, heavy aircraft, even though it requires a fair amount of maintenance after snow storms.
Aircraft
ALCI utilises a Russian Ilyushin Il-76TD heavy transport aircraft to bridge the 4 200 km gap between Cape Town and DML. The aircraft type first flew in the early 1970s and proved itself as a versatile, rugged, dependable aircraft in a variety of conditions all over the world. This large, four-engined aircraft with its self-loading and unloading cargo system is absolutely perfect for its unique task. It has the capacity to transport up to 80 passengers or 20 tons of cargo. In 2004 ALCI began using the Il-76 to drop fuel by parachute to establish fuel depots in remote areas close to the South Pole. The Il-76 is also required to drop diesel and jet fuel over Vostok, the Russian continental station. Vostok, where the coldest temperatures in history have been recorded, is located almost 10 000 ft above sea level. The fuel drops are executed from 1 600 ft above ground level, leading to a lack of oxygen. This means that the paradroppers and aircrew have to be in excellent physical condition in order to perform these challenging tasks.
ALCI makes use of three Basler BT-67 aircraft to service the DROMLAN and other Antarctic routes. One of those aircraft, called ‘Polar 5’ is owned by the Alfred Wagner Institute of Polar and Marine Research (AWI). In addition to transporting passengers and equipment, it is equipped to investigate the lithosphere, atmosphere and cryosphere.
The Basler BT-67 is an upgraded Douglas DC-3, powered by two 1 424 hp PT6A-67R turboprop engines. The engines are powerful, extremely reliable and easy to maintain. It is capable of cruising at a speed of 215 knots, but the wheel / ski configuration is what allows the aircraft to operate efficiently in this icy region.
Personal experience
Rapidly changing weather conditions in Antarctica can from time to time make flights to, from and within the frozen continent rather unpredictable. Therefore, I arrived in Cape Town a few days before the Ilyushin was scheduled to depart. Before the flight, all passengers had to attend a mandatory briefing at the Antarctic Cub, opposite ALCI’s office near Long Street. At the briefing, 63 passengers from Finland, Germany, Britain, India and Iceland were informed of the status of flight preparations and weather conditions, after which procedure acceptance forms had to be signed. At 19h00 that afternoon, team leaders phoned an ALCI contact person for final confirmation that the flight would indeed take place. After we had cleared customs and passport control at Cape Town International Airport, we waited patiently at the boarding gate to be taken to the Ilyushin Il-76. After boarding the aircraft, a safety briefing was projected onto a white screen in the front of the aircraft. At exactly 23h30, the Russian giant rumbled down the runway. A small camera in the navigator’s cockpit was linked to the projector, giving passengers a pilot’s eye view from their seats. The last city lights disappeared from the screen as if to signal that we were leaving civilisation to visit an alien land.
During the flight to Antarctica, cold drinks, food and snacks were provided. Documentary movies presented by David Attenborough were projected onto the white screen as in-flight entertainment. After about four and a half hours’ flying, Sir David disappeared to make room for an important message to the passengers, “We are going to land in Antarctica in 90 minutes. Please change into your polar clothing!” The projector switched back to displaying images from the camera in the aircraft’s nose. Dark ocean water littered with slabs of ice became visible through the clouds. Soon, the screen turned completely white with ice and snow as we approached Novo Runway. Esteemed test pilot and ‘Hero of Russia’ Ruben Esayan completed a perfect landing on the ice runway. When the Ilyushin’s door was opened, we were met by a fantastic, surreal world of ice. The temperature was -13°C with 30 knot winds. In an instant the airbase was bustling with activity. Cargo was unloaded through the open ramp access door at the back of the aircraft, whilst specially modified pickup trucks and snowmobiles with sleds transported cargo and personnel. The Indians transported their equipment with their own vehicles to the nearby Maitri Station, whilst German equipment, for example, was placed next to a Basler for air transportation to the Neumayer Station. Food and accommodation for transit passengers were provided at the base itself.
Later that morning, with the weather at Neumayer Station clearing, the German team was the first to depart. After delivering the German team with their equipment, the Basler would have to perform a medevac from another station. Before I hitched a ride on a sled to return to the Ilyushin, I was fortunate to see and photograph Polar 5, the AWI Basler. Again, rush hour fell upon the tranquil icescape surrounding the Il-76. Soon, the aircraft was refuelled, loaded and ready for take-off. My brief adventure was about to come to an end. I acquired a deep admiration for the ALCI personnel involved in Antarctic operations. It was obvious that they are able to overcome very trying conditions to perform their tasks, but what impressed me most, was the high level of professionalism and efficiency achieved in this hostile, but incredibly beautiful world.